Category: Tree Cutting Tips

Gardeners usually dream of tall, compact fruit trees. But most adult apple and pear trees in our dachas are giants. But the height of these plants can be controlled! Small trees are much easier to care for and easier to harvest. Small-sized crowns are well-lit and ventilated, which has a positive effect on the fruits and the health of the tree.

Additionally, certain trees like the ash tree are vulnerable to infestations by the emerald ash borer, which can cause the tree to sprout suckers after being damaged. It is important to seek professional help to manage these suckers and new sprouts well, as they can compete for nutrients with the main tree system. How to stop tree branches from growing back?

Why Should You Cut Tree Branches

Pruning of tree branches from growing is carried out to form a tree, regulate branch growth and fruiting, improve the quality of fruits, improve the illumination of the crown, and rejuvenate, and remove dry, diseased, and damaged branches. It makes it possible to develop and grow trees of the required size with a strong trunk that can withstand large fruit harvests, ensuring long-term preservation of the productivity of overgrown wood and obtaining high-quality fruits.

After planting the garden and before it enters into fruiting, pruning is carried out to form trees of the same type in the height of the stem, the number of larger branches, and the location of stable skeletal branches of the crown along the conductor, taking into account the biological characteristics of breeds and varieties. Improper pruning can lead to competing branches that compete for sunlight and nutrients.

During the fruiting period, pruning tree branches provide an annual increase of sufficient limb length, laying a moderate number of flower buds, protecting the crown from thickening, and maintaining the necessary lighting inside it by thinning the branches. Pruning allows you to replace old fruit formations with new branches and new growth, preserve, maintain, and create fruit formations along the entire length of the branches. Removing dead limbs is crucial to improve air circulation and prevent diseases.

There are the following tasks of pruning trees:

• Maintaining and improving the crown of the tree, the plant looks well-groomed and attractive;
• Regulation of the growth and development of culture in the garden;
• Increasing the number of harvested crops, improving the quality of each fruit (size, taste);
• Prevention of thickening of branches, which leads to diseases and a decrease in the yield of the tree;
• Timely removal of diseased shoots is a measure to combat the spread of the disease and the death of an entire tree;
• Rejuvenation of the tree, the cut branches become stronger and thicker, they can give a high-quality harvest and withstand a larger number of fruits.

There are two ways of pruning fruit trees: thinning when the entire branch is completely removed, as gardeners say, on the ring, and shortening, when a part of the branch is usually removed over the bud of annual shoots or on a side branch-over a branch of old branches.

When pruning a tree, one or another part of the crown, its skeletal and overgrown branches are removed. This violates the necessary correspondence of the main parts of the tree that has been established in the plant. Such a violation causes increased growth in the tree and ensures the restoration of the disturbed balance. Pruned branches should be managed properly to discourage unwanted regrowth.

After pruning, new increments appear in the tree, more or less strong, depending on the age and condition of the tree, the degree and method of pruning, the time of its implementation and on which part of the crown the pruning was done, etc.

How to Stop Tree Branches from Growing Back

Incorrect and inept pruning tree can lead to excessive thickening of the crown, to later fruiting and a decrease in the winter hardiness of fruit trees due to poor aging of the wood and prolonged growth of shoots at the end of the growing and flowering season. Pruning properly is essential to prevent regrowth and potential decay.

In the practice of amateur gardening, mistakes in pruning have undesirable consequences. On many sites of horticultural associations, you can see such a picture. Fruit trees have too high a stem (up to 2 m) or the main skeletal branches are exposed to the same height. The first situation arose from the fact that in the first years after planting the garden, amateur gardeners did not carry out the formation of the crown of trees or in a more mature state they had to cut out the main skeletal branches that died from improper pruning of trees. Removing dead limbs is a crucial part of tree maintenance.

The second situation is observed in areas where the gardener, wanting to somehow thin out the crown, by pruning cut cuts out the completely overgrown wood with a pruner to the height of an outstretched arm. From such pruning cuts, the fruiting zone is transferred to the upper parts of the crown, the productivity of fruit trees decreases, and the care of the crown and the crop is significantly hampered. A healthy root system is vital in providing necessary nutrients and moisture.

How the crown of a fruit tree is formed largely determines its further productivity, the convenience of caring for the crown, the size and quality of the crop, the strength of skeletal branches, the nature and strength of their growth. The crown, formed without the participation of the gardener, usually has a large amount of unproductive wood, is one-sided, fragile and inconvenient to work with. Preventing the same limbs from regrowing minimizes repetitive cutting.

Highly branching varieties of fruit tree create excessive thickening of the crown, in varieties with weak shoot-producing ability, on the contrary, the crowns are rare, with bare branches. The main skeletal branches often depart the root at an acute angle, so in gardens where the crown was not formed, branches are broken off, and sometimes the trunk is split. The importance of a tree’s roots in maintaining a balance with its leaves cannot be overstated.

Before starting pruning, every gardener should know why this is done. In addition to the above tasks, we should not forget that pruning greatly activates and even changes the biochemical processes in plants. Addressing unwanted branches and roots during the pruning process is essential for healthy plant growth and development.

Under its influence, the sugar content increases in the shoots of fruit crops at the beginning of the growing season due to changes in the flow of nutrients to the places of injury of branches, pruning improves the conditions of water supply of the remaining growth points on the tree and the conditions of their nutrition.

Almost all parts of the aboveground root system of fruit trees are not pruned properly, so it is absolutely necessary for every amateur gardener to know about the structure of the main parts of the fruit tree, their purpose and functions.

Growth period

A young tree in the first years of life, during the so-called growth period, gives strong vegetative growth of the trunk and skeletal branches of the first orders and few weakly growing branches. A small number of skeletal branches grow at the ends (apical buds), and the volume of the crown increases rapidly, but crowns are rare.

The main task of pruning fruit trees in this first period is the formation of the tree, its trunk, and the main skeletal branches of the crown, their correct and uniform placement in different directions, regulation of their growth, and acceleration of the formation of overgrown branches-future carriers of the first harvests.

To do this, individual skeletal branches of the tree are systematically shortened in such a way that the main skeletal branches give stronger gains; temporary skeletal branches that are worse located, and less durable, are cut off more so that they do not interfere with the main ones;

in summer, if necessary, additional pinching of the lateral branches is carried out to turn them into semi-skeletal and cover them with overgrown branches. In apple trees of different varieties, this growth period lasts up to about 5-6 years, and only in late-ripening varieties up to 10 years.

The Period of Growth and Fruiting

In the second period of life of the tree – the period of growth and fruiting-the tree continues to have strong growth of skeletal branches of different orders, the number of skeletal branches increases, the crown thickens, a greater number of overgrown branches are formed and the first fruits appear. Harvests at the beginning of the period are irregular, the fruits are placed inside the crown on the first overgrown twigs.

Pruning of fruit trees during this period consists in the further formation of the crown of the tree, for which the annual increments of the conductors and the lateral skeletal branches are shortened, while observing the strict subordination of the skeletal branches to the conductor and the lateral branches of the higher order to the branches of the lower orders.

Excess skeletal branches of the tree that thicken the crown are sometimes removed entirely, on the ring or partially over the stump of the lateral branch without leaving a stump-thorn. Thus, the crown is thinned, which provides better access of light and air to the inner parts of the crown, where the crop is mainly located.

The Period of Fruiting and Growth of the Tree

In the next period – the period of fruiting and growth, the progressive growth (at the ends) of skeletal branches gradually weakens and then stops completely by the end of the period. The crown reaches the largest size for this variety under these conditions.

A mass of semi-skeletal and overgrown branches is formed throughout the crown. Inside the crown, the oldest, less well-lit fouling branches begin to die off; the lower parts of the skeletal branches are exposed to direct sunlight. Fruit yields are increasing and reaching the largest sizes.

In this period, the fruits are of high quality. By the end of the period, the frequency of fruiting is revealed in most apple varieties (most often after a few weeks to a year).

Pruning of fruit trees during this period consists in the pruning cuts and systematic easy thinning of excess skeletal branches that thicken the crown and interfere with each other, and the removal of shrinking small branches. It is necessary to maintain a stronger growth at the ends of skeletal branches during this period, as this ensures the appearance of new overgrowing branches and an increase in yield.

To do this, the upper parts of the increments are shortened along the periphery of the crown. At the end of this period, a light rejuvenation is performed, that is, it is cut off for more mature wood. The place where this heavy pruning that should be carried out is determined by the presence of sufficiently strong gains in recent years (more than 20-25 centimeters).

In this period of life, such rejuvenation is usually done by cutting off three or four-year-old wood. New, stronger gains also develop and give more productive overgrowing branches, which ensure high yields.

The Period of Full Fruiting of the Tree

In the next period – the period of full fruiting, the volume of the crown remains one and the same size, the yields are the largest (by weight), but the fruits are already somewhat smaller, their shedding increases, the frequency of fruiting is more sharply revealed.

The growth of skeletal branches stops, the ends of all branches give only weak gains and turn into fouling ones, the drying of the fouling branches increases, and the inner part of the crown becomes barer and barer; partially semi-skeletal and fouling branches also shrink in the peripheral part of the crown on skeletal branches of higher orders. The fruits are placed mainly closer to the ground level and periphery of the crown.

Pruning of fruit trees during this period is to regulate the growth and fruiting of the crown in a given volume in such a way as to strengthen the annual growth and, by reducing the number of weak overgrowing branches, improve the nutrition of the rest. To do this, thinning is done and weaker skeletal branches are cut out with all the overgrown branches on them.

Skeletal branches are also shortened by about five-eight-year-old, and sometimes even more mature wood to the place where there were strong gains in previous years. Heavily thickened, neglected crowns are thinned out not immediately, but gradually, over 2-3 years; with gradual pruning, the tree suffers less. Rejuvenation is also better to be carried out not immediately in one year, but gradually, over 2-3 years.

The Period of Fruiting and Drying of the Tree

During the period of fruiting and drying and in the subsequent period, the dying of branches increases, the ends of skeletal branches on the periphery of the crown begin to dry out, and over time, both inside the crown and the wood shrinks more than it grows again. Inside the crown, “tops” appear – new branches with strong gains of the skeletal type.

Over time, the volume of the tree crown is significantly reduced, and tops, even stronger, appear already in the depth of the crown on the lower bare sections of the branches. As a result, yields are reduced and the fruits are very small.

Pruning of fruit trees during this period is a further stronger rejuvenation of the crown. The skeletal branches are shortened to more mature wood (on a side branch or on a top limb), the bare unproductive temporary skeletal branches are cut out and new crown sections are formed on the tops of larger branches.

At the same time, the yield increases and improves, given that the fruits are placed on younger and new buds in stronger increments. It is necessary to monitor the rejuvenated crown all the time, cut and prune out excess shoots and give the right direction to the newly growing branches.

Rejuvenated trees with good fertilizer and careful tillage will give a normal harvest in 3-4 years. It is better to rejuvenate not all the old trees at once, but gradually, for example, through one tree. More information about prunning you’ll find in this video:

Pruning Rules

It is not customary to make two large wounds next to each other on the trunk.

• It is necessary to cut branches of the tree without stumps – they interfere with wound healing, crack, rot and lead to the formation of hollows.
• Oblique cuts significantly increase the size of the wound, they heal worse and take longer.
• The sections made with a saw are cleaned with a garden knife, then covered with garden pitch, water-based or oil paint. You can read about the saw for cutting trees in our NEW article
• If there are not many slices, they can be covered with plasticine – it includes petrolatum, which stimulates the overgrowth of wounds.
• A fungicide is added to any putty-usually copper sulfate.
• As a putty, you can also use a mixture of clay and mullein (2:1), diluted to the density of sour cream, in which wool, a fractional section of hay or straw are added for viscosity.

Safety Precautions

Safety concerns pruning processes and garden equipment issues:

• Sharp, heavy objects should not be thrown, only passed from hand to hand. Each of them should have its own cover during transportation.
• During the procedure, use gloves that will prevent damage, the occurrence of splinters.
• Keep children away from tools that are dangerous for them.
• Timely sharpen pruning shears, knives. For storage, hooks are suitable, on which you can hang an object.
• When pruning, use a stepladder or a ladder with wide steps. Do not do pruning in the rain and on wet stairs.
• Wear comfortable shoes so as not to slip.

F. A. Q

Blue spruce (Picea pungens) is a popular evergreen tree with beautiful blue-gray needles and a pyramidal shape. Often used as ornamental trees in landscaping, they can grow really tall and wide. Whether for aesthetic reasons, the health of the tree, or practical concerns such as improving access or preventing obstruction, tree trimming the bottom branches of a blue spruce is a regular maintenance chore. From the background information about the procedure to trimming bottom branches of blue spruce its step-by-step instructions, tools required, and aftercare expectations, this book covers everything you need to know regarding pruning bottom branches.

Why Trimming Bottom Branches of Blue Spruce?

Aesthetic Reasons

There are numerous reasons why one would trim the lower trimming bottom branches of blue spruce; however, an increased beauty is one of them. The beauty of the tree is enhanced by removing lower branches hence giving it a more defined look. It may also enable individuals to see more clearly its shape plus its needles’ lovely color making it a focal point in any landscape.

Health and Maintenance

The overall health of the tree can be improved by cutting back on basal limbs. Lower branches that are dead or diseased can be infected with pests or pathogens. This helps prevent the spread of diseases while at the same time increasing air movement within the plant thereby reducing humidity around it subsequently lowering fungal infection potentiality.

Practical Considerations

In terms of practicality though, pruning off low-lying branches improves accessibility as well as safety. Whenever trees are planted close to pathways/ driveways/ buildings then removal of these lower limbs will decrease any obstructions which might occur thus decreasing accidents from that quarter. Also it makes mowing and other forms of landscaping much easier for you.

When to Trim Bottom Branches

Timing matters when trimming bottom branches on spruces especially if they are blue ones. Late winter and early spring just before new growth starts is considered to be the optimum time for pruning such trees. Pruning during this period allows the tree to recover quickly and encourages robust new growth.

Do not trim them in late summer or in autumn, because it can cause new growth that is not hardened before winter which may lead to injury by freezing temperatures. Besides, cutting them back during the growing season will stress the plant and make it more prone to disease and insect infestation.

Tools and Equipment

To trim the bottom branches of a blue spruce, you’ll need the following tools and equipment:

• Pruning Shears: For cutting smaller branches and twigs.
• Lopping Shears: For cutting larger branches that are too thick for pruning shears.
• Pruning Saw: For cutting very thick branches.
• Protective Gear: Including gloves, safety glasses, and long sleeves to protect against sharp needles and potential debris.
• Disinfectant: To clean your tools before and after use to prevent the spread of disease.

Step-by-Step Guide to Trimming Bottom Branches

Preparing the Tree and Area

1. Inspect the Tree: Before you start, thoroughly inspect the tree to identify which branches need to be removed. Look for dead, diseased, or damaged branches.
2. Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles around the base of the tree to ensure a safe working environment. This includes moving garden decorations, clearing away debris, and making sure there’s enough space to move around the tree.

Making the Cuts

1. Disinfect Your Tools: Before making any cuts, disinfect your tools with a mixture of water and bleach (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) to prevent the spread of disease.
2. Start with the Outer Branches: Begin trimming by cutting the outermost branches first. This will give you better access to the inner branches.
3. Make Clean Cuts: Use sharp tools to make clean cuts. Avoid tearing or ripping the branches, as this can damage the tree and increase the risk of infection.
4. Cut at the Branch Collar: When removing a branch, make the cut just outside the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk). This allows the tree to heal more efficiently.
5. Work Your Way Inward: Continue trimming, working your way inward towards the trunk. Remove branches systematically to maintain the tree’s shape and balance.
6. Do Not Over-prune: Be cautious not to remove too many branches at once. Over-pruning can stress the tree and inhibit its growth. As a general rule, do not remove more than 25-30% of the tree’s foliage in a single session.

Aftercare and Maintenance

1. Clean Up Debris: Once you’ve finished pruning, clean up all debris around the base of the tree. This helps prevent pests and diseases from taking hold.
2. Water the Tree: Give the tree a thorough watering after pruning to help it recover from the stress of pruning.
3. Monitor the Tree: Keep an eye on the tree over the next few weeks for any signs of stress or disease. If you notice any issues, address them promptly.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Over-pruning

One common mistake most people make is over-pruning their trees which stresses them up too much hence affecting photosynthesis ability. To avoid such problems, never remove more than 25-30% foliage cover during any single pruning season for this type of plant.

Improper Cutting Technique

Wrong cuts could damage trees causing them to fall sick. Make sure to always make clean cuts just outside the branch collar when pruning for proper healing. Avoid leaving stubs or cutting too close to the trunk.

Pruning at the Wrong Time

Bad timing of trimming also leads to harmful impacts on trees. Best time for this exercise is normally towards late winter, early spring and therefore avoid doing it in late summer or fall because that may trigger new growth which may fail to thrive during winter periods.

How To Maintain The Shape After Trimming A Blue Spruce  

Maintaining the shape of a Blue Spruce after trimming requires a combination of careful pruning, regular maintenance, and attention to the tree’s overall health. Here are some tips on how to keep your Blue Spruce looking its best after trimming:

1. Trim at the Right Time: The best time to prune a Blue Spruce is in late winter or early spring before new growth begins. This timing helps avoid exposing the tree to harsh winter conditions immediately after pruning, and it allows the tree to heal quickly as it enters its growth phase.
2. Use the Right Tools: Ensure your pruning tools are sharp and clean to make precise cuts and prevent the spread of disease. Tools like hand pruners, loppers, and a pruning saw are suitable for different sizes of branches.
3. Prune for Health and Shape: Start by removing any dead, diseased, or damaged branches. Make cuts just above the branch collar without leaving a stub. For shaping, follow the natural pyramidal form of the Blue Spruce. Avoid cutting into the older wood that doesn’t have needles, as this part of the branch won’t regrow.
4. Thin Sparingly: Blue Spruces generally do not require heavy thinning. Remove only a small percentage of the branches to enhance light penetration and air circulation. Over-thinning can stimulate excessive new growth that can deform the tree’s natural shape.
5. Maintain a Central Leader: Ensure that the tree maintains a strong central leader, the main upward-growing branch. This is especially important for young trees to help maintain the characteristic conical shape.
6. Regular Inspection: Check your tree regularly for signs of pest infestation or disease. Early detection and treatment can prevent more severe damage and help maintain the tree’s shape and health.
7. Water and Mulch: Keep the tree well-watered, especially after pruning and during dry spells. Mulch around the base of the tree to help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and reduce weed competition.
8. Fertilize Appropriately: Fertilize the Blue Spruce if necessary, based on a soil test. Over-fertilization can lead to rapid, weak growth that detracts from the tree’s shape and makes it more susceptible to diseases.
9. Avoid Topping: Never top a Blue Spruce, as this can lead to poor growth patterns and unsightly shapes.

Soil protection

Trimming the lower branches of a spruce can negatively affect soil moisture retention underneath. To counteract this, apply a 3-4 inch layer of mulch around the tree, extending slightly past the drip line—the perimeter formed by the tree’s farthest-reaching branches. Ensure that the mulch doesn’t touch the tree’s trunk to prevent mold and decay; instead, leave a small gap to expose the root flare where the tree meets the soil. 

This mulch layer will help maintain moisture and also act as an effective weed barrier if it’s thick enough. Avoid using landscape fabric under the mulch, as it can hinder moisture and nutrient absorption and fails to prevent weeds, which often grow over the fabric. Additionally, mulch helps prevent soil compaction around the tree, protecting the roots from being suffocated and potentially prolonging the tree’s health.

Conclusion

Pruning off lower branches of blue spruces improves their beauty, health and accessibility. This guide will help you keep your blue bottom of spruce as a beautiful landscape tree now and forever. Remembering that you should use right tools, make clean cuts and not to over-prune in order to maintain your tree’s good condition. Your garden could still stand out due to a blue spruce as it will provide shade and beauty throughout a year if well taken care of.

FAQ

Sometimes when you are going to construct a brand new patio, dance floor or just a landscape somewhere in your backyard, a tree stump can become a challenging obstacle because of which you can’t start the process of construction.

You should keep in mind that it’s not very easy to get rid of the stump, and sometimes it becomes impossible. But we would like to make this process not so challenging for you.

In this article you will learn how to get rid of a tree stump with charcoal. You will understand what instruments you will need and what steps you will have to perform. We hope that the instruction will be useful for you.

Benefits Of Using Charcoal For A Stump Removal

Typically charcoal is used for firing up fire pits and barbecues, but it’s almost never used for removing trees. Burn tree stump with charcoal?

However, we are trying to tell you that it’s possible and, in fact, is much more convenient than in any other options. This is so for the following reasons:

• The speed – although it works more slowly than if you choose grinding or cutting with the use of a chainsaw, you will spend a couple of days. As for other natural ways, this one is more efficient and speedy;
• The low price – you won’t need a lot of equipment or tools. The only things you will need is the charcoal itself, some oil and a drill. You can see that this method is really inexpensive;
• Little or even no effort – the procedure is really simple that almost anyone will cope with it. You won’t have to do anything difficult;
• No noise – charcoal burning will produce the smoke which can be a little bit annoying, but there will be no noise, so you won’t bother your neighbors too much.

Drawbacks Of Charcoal Stump Removal

Although the method is really efficient, we have to keep in mind that there are also disadvantages and even dangers of this scheme.

They happen to be the following:

• A big amount of ashes – charcoal happens to be really messy. There is a lot of soot produced during the burning of charcoal;
• Soil damage – burning, in fact, often becomes the reason for temporary or even timeless destruction of the soil around the place where the fire was started. It means that near this place there will be no weeds, grass and any other plants for a long time or even forever;
• The danger of burning – we have to keep in mind that fire is always hazardous and you can be hurt by it, or your property can be destroyed if your fire breaks out too much;
• Smoke – even if the stump you are going to destroy is small, its burning will cause lots of smoke. Therefore, it can pollute the environment and, in addition to this, irritate your neighbours.

However, the procedure itself doesn’t take much time, so if you know how to do it and you have all the needed tools, you will be able not to think of the mentioned drawbacks.

Instruments Required For Destroying A Tree Stump With Charcoal

The process happens to be not really difficult, and you won’t need a lot of tools. But you should keep in mind that there are still instruments needed.

The tools which are recommended for use during the procedure are the following:

• A face mask – it will protect you from the smoke getting inside your lungs as well as from soot getting onto your face;
• Gloves – your hands will get totally black with charcoal soot unless you apply safety gloves. Besides, the gloves will protect your hands from fire burning;
• Safety goggles – we should also keep our eyes safe from soot and smoke;
• Extinguisher – when the stump will be burnt, there will be a lot of flames. It is not very likely that there will be a big fire, but we should have a fire extinguisher close to you if it happens;
• Some blocks or rocks – to make the procedure as safe as possible you can construct a block or rock fence around the stump so that the fire will stay inside the fence;
• A drill – if you want to make the process faster, you will need a drill to make holes inside the stump and burn it from the inside;
• A shovel – this instrument will be extremely helpful when you need to get rid of the stump roots;
• Vegetable oil – this oil will make the process of burning inside the stump easier. You just have to pour it into the holes created with the drill. It’s recommended to use about 2 liters of oil;
• Charcoal – of course, you shouldn’t forget about the main element of the procedure. The bag of charcoal should be big enough. In addition to this, if the tree stump has a diameter of more than 40 inches, you will need at least two bags.

Features To Take Into Consideration Before Stump Burning

Before you begin the process itself burning stump with charcoal, you should take into account the things that are rather important for completing the procedure successfully.

They are the following:

• The size of the stump makes a difference since it affects the length of the process. For instance, if the stump is immense, it will take up to 4-5 days to get rid of it. Besides, you should take into account the type of the wood as well as its density since they are also important;
• The speed of the process – we just have to keep in mind that you won’t complete the procedure in a day, so you have to have several days which you can dedicate to getting rid of the stump;
• If you have children and/or any pets, you should make sure that they can’t get close to the fire because it’s rather dangerous for them as well as for you if you get distracted by anything;
• You should take into account your neighbors as they can be disturbed by smoke produced by the stump burning. So the best idea is to warn them before you start it and let them know how much time it will take and when exactly you are going to do it;
• Laws and regulations are also important since there can be some specific environmental rules in your area. For instance, in some states starting fires in patios or backyards is forbidden;
• Fires and flammability – you should always keep in mind that burning something big is really dangerous but we usually don’t understand it. Therefore, it’s highly recommended to have a water bucket, a water hose, and an extinguisher somewhere around you;
• Soil and roots danger – another hazard can be caused if the fire travels into the soil through the roots. In some conditions, it can even lead to soil burning and spoiling the bug area of the surroundings.

We believe that these things are very important. If you take all of them into consideration carefully, your stump burning procedure will become much easier and quicker.

How To Get Rid Of A Tree Stump With Charcoal: Step-By-Step-Procedure

As we know what tools we need and what features we should take into account, it’s time to discuss steps that you need to take to remove the stump.

Digging Soil Around the Stump

First of all, you should get rid of all the roots left. It may happen to be rather difficult and take around a couple of hours. But still this is highly essential to do if you are planning to get rid of the stump.

You can stop digging as soon as the roots become visible and you can put your charcoal over them.

Drilling Several Holes

After completing the first step and making the roots visible, you have to drill the tree stump. A few holes should be on its top, while the others should cover the sides of the stumps.

It’s recommended to make a hole every two inches of the surface. The depth of the hole should be eight inches or more.

The best idea is to use the thickest drill you have in your instrument box. This step will be useful for creating a larger burning effect.

Pouring Some Vegetable Oil

The next step is to put your vegetable oil into the holes you have drilled. The holes have to be filled to the very top even if some oil gets out. You don’t have to get right to the next step immediately but you should let the oil get absorbed so as to make the wood burn more quickly.

If you have time and you want a better result, you should fill the drilled holes with vegetable oil for a couple of days. It will be good preparation and you will be able to light up the stump fast.

Putting Charcoal

To this step, there is usually a couple of days passed. The next thing you need to do is to put the charcoal onto the tree stump. You should place your charcoal preferably on the thickest spots of the stump as well as the top of the stump. Moreover, some charcoal should be poured near the roots.

It’s highly recommended to cover the whole stump with charcoal. The more the surface is covered, the faster the process of burning will be. Don’t forget to cover the top of the stump with a thick layer of charcoal.

Lighting Up The Stump

And now you can start. You can use a match or a lighter for lighting a small piece of paper or napkin and throw it onto the charcoal on the top of the stump.

If you have done the previous steps properly, the fire will break out almost immediately. If it doesn’t happen this way, you can use some kerosene to pour over the charcoal. Please, note that it’s not recommended unless the fire doesn’t start under any circumstances.

Then you should try and light the charcoal once more. The rest you have to do is wait and watch the fire spreading around the stump. You have to make sure that the fire doesn’t go out of control.

Looking After The Fire

Don’t leave the fire since it can break out and create a threat to your property as well as to the whole neighborhood.

Usually, the process of active burning lasts for two or three hours, so the best idea is to ask someone else to help you with watching the burning. When the fire lowers down, you can have some rest. But you still shouldn’t forget to take care of this fire tree stump removal. You should make sure that the fire doesn’t break out around the stump.

Relighting If Needed

By this moment you can see a huge part of the tree stump gone. If there is more than a quarter of the stump left, it’s recommended to light it up once more at least for a day.

For this you will also need some more charcoal, but the amount will be less since the left piece is smaller itself.

The procedure is almost the same – you cover the left stump with charcoal and start the fire. Again you have to monitor the fire for several hours.

The process can be repeated up to the moment when the stump is destroyed. Usually, it takes four or five days unless the stump is too large.

Cleaning The Left Mess

If you have completely got rid of the tree stump, you have to clean all that is left. You should dig the pieces of burnt wood left, then remove the left charcoal and get rid of as much soot as possible around the area.

You may need a shovel to dig some roots out if necessary.

If the tree stump burning created a dent in the ground, you can add some rocks or soil there to cover the burnt area and make it look good.

VIDEO THAT WILL HELP YOU!

Frequently Asked Questions

Below we would like to cover the answers to the most frequently asked questions concerning getting rid of tree stumps. If you still have questions on how to get rid of a tree stump with charcoal, read these short answers below.

1. Will charcoal kill tree stumps?

Indeed, charcoal can kill tree stumps. Above we have covered the process of how you can get rid of a tree stump with charcoal.

Just don’t forget to study the advantages and disadvantages of the method, what features you have to take into account and what tools you will require.

2. What is the fastest way to get rid of a tree stump?

In fact, burning the stump is not the fastest way to get rid of the stump. The fastest way is to cut the stump with a chainsaw as much as possible and then dig out all the left parts. However, this method happens to be very noisy and hard physically and definitely very annoying for your neighbors.

Besides, it isn’t very efficient since there will be small parts and roots of the stump left in its place. Therefore, if you have some more time, it’s easier to use charcoal for getting rid of the tree stump.

3. What is the fastest way to kill a tree stump and roots?

Again, as we have covered in the question below, you can try to cut the stump with a chainsaw and dig out all the rest parts, but though it’s fast, it’s not very efficient.
How to kill a tree without cutting it down? As it was described, the process of burning the stump itself is rather quick and efficient, but it needs some preparatory job to do.

In Closing

As you can see, using charcoal to get rid of a tree stump is rather efficient. As any other method, it has its own advantages and drawbacks which you should know before you opt for any available scheme. And, of course, if you have decided to use charcoal, there is a list of certain features which you need to take into account in order to make the burning process easier and safer.

Besides, you have to take into account that you need several instruments for applying this method. The list is also presented in the article above.

The procedure itself is not so difficult if you complete all the steps correctly. but it will take several days. However, the burning itself is rather fast if you do all the preparations and don’t forget to let the vegetable oil get absorbed with the wood.

Although we don’t insist that this is the best way of tree stump removal, we are sure that it’s one of the most efficient and convenient methods of getting rid of a stump. You just have to drill holes, pour the oil and burn the charcoal on the stump. That’s it – you don’t have to do any physically hard job except for precautionary roots digging and cleaning up the mess afterwards.

We hope that this article is extremely helpful for you and you now understand how to get rid of a tree stump with charcoal, and you will be able to remove a tree stump from your backyard or patio without any obstacles.

Sometimes many homeowners wonder how to cut down a small tree. Trees certainly go a long way towards your garden, but there may be situations where cutting down small trees is simply unavoidable.

That might be the case when you want to clear your yard and make it visually spacious or, for example, when a tree interferes with your actions. If you still need to cut down a tree, heed our advice.

Having a good chainsaw doesn’t mean you’ll cut the tree right. You must not only have the necessary tree removal equipment but also know certain techniques, have special skills in order to know where to cut correctly and not to injure yourself.

Knowledge of safety rules is very important!

We suggest you learn five must-know tips that even beginners can use. These five tips will help you find out how to cut a small tree without hurting yourself!

A guide to properly cutting down small trees

Observe the following guidelines if you wonder how to cut small trees:

1. Prepare the equipment and materials you need;
2. Plan your actions;
3. Clear the Base of the tree;
4. Assess the cutting area;
5. Сut the tree at a comfortable height for you;

First of all, you should consider what equipment will be useful to you. Look on the internet or ask professionals about the necessary tools. You will probably need a chainsaw, stump grinder, or ax to cut down a tree. A cross saw may be useful too.

Also, take care of your safety and wear gloves, goggles, and even a safety helmet. Wearing these things will protect your head and eyes.

Useful Video:  Recommendation How To Cut Down A Small Tree.

In this video, you can see practical advice on how to cut down a small tree.

When the equipment is ready, estimate the direction of the tree falling. It should not fall on your crops and damage you and your property. Even small tree cutting, if not carried out properly, can be a disaster.

Next, you need to make sure the base of the tree is clear of debris. If dry leaves or grass are growing, remove it. These actions will help you not to be distracted from your main work. The preparatory phase is extremely important!

In addition to this, assess the cutting area. Sometimes trees can be taller than you imagine, so they should not be underestimated. Calculate everything well, even if the trees seem small to you.

After your preparations, when the process of direct cutting of trees begins, we advise you to follow these steps:

• do not squat while felling a tree;
• keep your small tree cutter in a convenient state for you;
• tilt your body forward and backward and make sure you feel comfortable;
• do not cut the tree too close to the ground, work at a comfortable distance: it is easier and faster to remove the stump later;

Remember that cutting down even a small tree can be difficult if you don’t know the simple rules.

When you know how to cut down a small tree correctly, everything will go well. The most important thing is that you do not harm yourself. Accordingly, the issue should be approached very seriously.

Correct and safe felling of a tree is real even for beginners! We hope that our tips will be useful for you and you can put them into practice. A well-thought-out plan and tree cutting techniques of action will help you avoid a possible disaster.

Cutting tree branches or overhanging branches is an inseparable part of a property owner, whether it’s trimming of the beloved tree that has been amusing you for several decades now or cutting off that branch that has been hanging over your parking slot dangerously close to the ground.

Whatever your case is – we prepared a short guide for you to understand what steps you should follow to get your tree branches cut and make it safe and sound.[/color-box]

Before you start cutting tree branches

As scary as the process might appear to you when bracing yourself and preparing to type in the search bar “How to cut tree branches?”, removing tree limbs is actually not that much of work.

First things first, let’s review all equipment and skills you would need for this unforgettable adventure – cutting tree branches.

Backed up with bravery and the absence of the fear of heights, please make sure you do not have any dizziness, headache, increased blood pressure, balance problems, or anything that can cause falling down from the height. Next, we check the equipment for limb removal:

• An extension ladder
• A chainsaw
• A rope
• A pruning saw or pole saw
• Safety equipment, like goggles, gloves, and other things you believe you may need to protect yourself from small branches, insects, etc.

Before you start, read the instructions on the equipment used and make sure to strictly follow them. We also strongly advise you to have an assistant during the whole process (you can ask your relative, a friend, or a neighbor) who would be able to give you a hand in case you require help or things get out of control.

If you do not feel confident of cutting tree branches yourself, lack the equipment, possess any of the symptoms from the list of medical precautions, it would be best if you could hire the professionals to do the job.

10 easy steps to cut tree branches

If you still are full of energy and determination to push through this dangerous mission yourself, here are the steps you can follow to make tree limb removal flawless and easy.

1. Place the ladder at a 75-degree angle to the roof against the building next to the tree a branch of which you wish to cut. Make sure to have your ladder extended enough (3 feet above the roof at least)
2. Get to the top of the ladder and make it to the roof so that you have solid support during the operation. Important: if you cannot find the spot that allows reaching the branch without leaning over the space with no solid support, do not risk your safety and order professional service with a cherry picker to get the job done.
3. In case you are able to reach the branch from the stop you chose, cut a small section of the branch with the chainsaw or pruning saw. This section should be small and light enough to hold it and drop when doing the cut without difficulty and/or putting your balance in jeopardy.
4. Repeat step 3 several times until you are not able to reach the branch anymore (the branch, however, might still have some undesired length)
5. You may stop at this point if you find the results of your work satisfactory. However, if you desire to cut the branch further, you need to change your location and make the following preparations:
6. After thoroughly examining the branch and ensuring it can support the ladder and your weight, you can lean the ladder next to it and continue cutting the branch in small sections. Look out to not cut too close to the point of contact between the branch and the ladder! In case if you have your doubts about the security of this step, we encourage you to skip it.
7. Once there is no more space on the branch to put the ladder against, it is time for the third (and the last) phase of the operation. Make your way up the ladder to the branch and tie a rope to it at least 1 foot away from its edge. The end of the rope should reach the ground and have a slack of the length of the remaining branch.
8. This time the ladder is to be put against the tree trunk; the position should be stable and solid, close enough to the branch so that you can reach it with the best saw for cutting tree branches without much leaning forward.
9. While you perform the cut, ensure your assistant is pulling the rope away from the property to avoid any possible damage. If the branch is too thick or heavy for a person to handle it, ask you, assistant, to tie the rope to the car to effectively pull it away.
10. When the mission is accomplished and the branch is successfully cut, make sure to fold down the ladder back to its storage state and collect all your instruments. Check the roof and the other branches of the tree for any items left behind.

Useful Videos: Step-By-Step Cutting Tree Branches

In these videos, you will find out how to cut tree branches properly and how to trim a tree limb that is out of reach

Cutting a tree branch, bear in mind

Speaking generally, cutting limbs and trimming trees is not a difficult procedure. However, it does involve a certain level of risk and a set of precautions is to be taken (we talked about them at the beginning of the article, if you skipped that part, we advise you to get back to it and devote a minute of your time to look them through).

Now that you have a clear picture in mind about how to cut tree branches, we have some tips to share with you that would enhance the safety of the operation and make the experience more enjoyable.

Thorough preparation is the key. Not only you need to have all the equipment at hand and gather all your courage to cut the limbs yourself, but also there are preparation actions to be taken.

Inspect your tree first; understand what exactly it is that you need to remove (if there is anything to remove at all), and look out for slippery spots, and unstable surfaces as you move around during examination.

Such checks better be run permanently with desired frequency (however once a month is considered to be sufficient). You do not necessarily require a ladder to inspect your tree; a pair of binoculars can be used for the inspection of branches that are hard to see from the ground.

Next, when you understand the scope of upcoming work, make a plan. Choose carefully in what sequence you need to cut the branches when there are several to be cut and where and how you place the ladder.

Cut by small pieces. As we mentioned in the easy steps, the branch is always to be cut not the whole one at once, but step by step in small pieces that you are able (except the last one) to hold with your own hand.

This way you would keep the situation under control and not risk dropping the piece of wood, jeopardizing your balance or risk to fall.

Don’t cut the branch collar. When it gets to the last final cut, which is believed to be the most difficult to perform, you would want to make your cut right above the spot where the collar is. Please ensure not to remove any part of the collar itself! Collar plays an utmost important role in the healing process.

When damaged, it cannot perform its function right, and the tree risk getting infected or rot. It is a highway to a tree’s death.

• Make the branches short enough. First, it will give you the ultimate level of satisfaction with the completed job, because what can be more beautiful than admiring the fruits of our own efforts?
• Second, leaving part of an unnecessary limb would result in the tree having difficulty with forming the scar tissue that keeps the wound open for too long and can result in potential infection.
• Do not use tree paint. Despite common beliefs, tree paints that are advertised as tree wound dressings and healing supplies often do more harm than good.
• Trees have the amazing ability of self-healing, as long as they are provided proper opportunities and conditions. Let that tree cuts dry, and you will see your tree happy and healthy in no time.
• Use the right tools. All the tools you decide to use for tree limb removal must be clean and sharp. Dull rusty saw leads to infecting the fresh wound and drastically decrease the tree’s chances of healing properly.
• Timing matters. Just like for human beings, trees are very sensitive to the season changes, temperature, humidity, etc. Certain times of the year are better for trimming than the others.

Winter is considered to be the best season for such manipulations due to the favorable temperature conditions; in cold the flow of the tree sap is slowed down since there are no leaves to nurture, and the infections and bacteria are less active during this period of time, so your tree is less likely to get sick during its healing.

• Don’t hesitate to ask for help. It might be the hardest part of all – to admit you have problems and call the specialist to assist you with them.

However, we assure you, the money you pay and the displeasure you might experience is worth having your tree treated properly, saving your property from potential damage, and avoiding risking your health.