How to Get Rid of Grass in Garden Without Killing Plants? Eco-Friendly Tips

When thinking about converting a patch of lawn into a flower bed the first step is to get rid of the sod. There are many ways to do this; some are more labor-intensive but produce quick results, while others may take an entire season to work but require less work up front. Here are four strategies for turning established turf into beds ready to plant — each with its own pros and cons and all of them bringing you one step closer to your dream garden. How to Get Rid of Grass in Garden Without Killing Plants?

The Problem with Grass Lawns

It’s nice having a small lawn for kids or pets, but the American obsession with big, green lawns is often more about habit than need. They’re problematic — pesticides on lawns drain into waterways, hurt bees and poison wildlife. The fuel used to maintain lawns contributes to air pollution. Think of all the water they soak up! Lawns also take up space that could support native habitats.

A pesticide-free lawn may have earthworms and grubs in it, but otherwise it’s ecologically barren. Now imagine if we transformed 50 million acres of lawn (or even just half) into vegetable gardens, flower beds perennials, edible shrubs and annuals, native plants, fruit trees or ornamental trees — ecosystem upon ecosystem teeming with life! And landscapes based on organic-ness and nativeness and edibility usually need less maintenance than traditional lawns anyway.

Should I Remove My Grass, or Simply Cover It?

There are several ways to go from lawn to food garden. One is taking out all the grass — which is what we did at our house. Alternatively, you can build raised beds right on top of the turf; over time the grass clippings will be starved of light beneath the soil surface and die off naturally from there due to lack of sunlight.

Or you can remove only as much turf as you need for your beds, then let the paths between them stay as-is, covered with living turfgrass that goes dormant in winter when you’re not typically gardening. This allows for more gradual transitions and cuts down on work.

Things to consider when deciding if you should remove your grass entirely, or simply landscape over it: 

• What kind of grass do you have? For instance, if it’s fescue or another classic lawn grass that doesn’t creep and run, you may be able to just cover it up. However, if crabgrass or other invasive weeds have taken over the grass died your front yard (which is technically bermuda grass), you probably don’t want to simply smother them.
• What’s the goal and design of the garden? Are you considering building raised garden beds on short grass, or would you prefer to plant directly into the ground? Obviously, if you’re going for in-ground garden beds, you’ll need to get rid of all the grass within that space. But tall raised beds can be placed right on top of grass — especially if they’re bottomed with cardboard, landscape fabric, old towels or anything else that will smother weed and grass growth below.
• Consider this scenario: You cover your lawn with materials such as cardboard or landscape fabric and then place raised beds over it. You also add a substantial layer of mulch, gravel, or another ground cover of your choice. Would the materials overflow or spill over the edges due to the height exceeding that of the borders?
• If your edges are abutted by patio pavers, driveway cement or any other hardscaping that’s already at an equal height as the grass — meaning adding material on top would be level with or higher than those surfaces — this method won’t work well. We completely removed our grass, creating a 4-6 inch deep void within our borders, which was ideal for filling with gravel, a fresh soil and compost mixture, and plants.
• Irrigation If there might possibly be some option for leaving some green behind (such as between your raised garden beds as pathways) first think about how everything gets water now… how will it get watered later?
• Does your area receive enough rainfall to naturally sustain grass without the need for sprinklers? If the grass’s survival relies on overhead spraying, it’s not advisable to have it between your garden beds, as vegetables and grass require different watering levels. I also recommend against using overhead sprinklers on wooden beds and plants. To better understand garden irrigation, including how we converted our lawn’s pop-up sprinklers to drip irrigation systems, consider exploring more about effective garden watering techniques.

When to Kill Grass in Garden Beds

Most grasses propagate both by rhizomes, or underground stems, and by seed. Consequently, the more grasses you let grow to maturity in your garden, the harder it will be to get rid of them. There are hundreds of seeds in each plant and these seeds can scatter all over the garden bed.

Therefore, to prevent weed seeds, you should deal with garden weeds as soon as they emerge and if possible before they develop seed heads during their growth period at the beginning of a year.

Put on protective clothing, particularly rubber gloves, before applying a chemical herbicide. Select a day with minimal wind and no rain in the forecast to ensure the herbicide remains where you apply it.

What will you need

Equipment / Tools

• Garden sprayer with wand
• Rubber gloves
• Garden trowel or hand fork
• Scrap piece of cardboard (if needed)

Materials

• Herbicide of your choice

Instructions

Using Broad-Spectrum Herbicide

A broad-spectrum herbicide is one of the most effective ways to remove grass from flower beds. However, be cautious, as these herbicides will kill any ornamental plants they come into contact with. Chemical herbicides are available in both liquid concentrates, which you mix with water and apply using a garden sprayer, and premixed forms sold in spray bottles.

Applying the Herbicide

Apply the herbicide thoroughly to the entire exposed grass plant. A wand-style sprayer is ideal for this task, as it allows you to target the grass with minimal overspray. If the grass is near ornamental plants, protect them by blocking the spray with a piece of cardboard or covering them with an overturned bucket.

Monitoring the Grass

Over the following days, observe the grass closely. It should start to brown and die. If the blades are not completely dead, reapply the herbicide. Resist the urge to dig up the grass too early, as the herbicide needs time to travel down to the roots.

Removing the Dead Grass

Once the grass has been completely dead for several days, it’s time to dig it up from your garden.

Caution

Be aware that many herbicides contain chemicals that can be harmful to humans, pets, wildlife, and the environment. It’s advisable to use these products only as a last resort for dealing with weeds.

Using Selective Herbicide

If you need to eliminate grass growing near ornamental plants, consider using a remove grass-specific herbicide. These products are designed to target only grasses, leaving your garden plants unharmed. They are effective against most annual grasses, such as crabgrass and foxtails, as well suppress weeds such as perennial grasses like nimblewill and quackgrass.

Apply the selective herbicide in the same way you would apply a broad-spectrum herbicide.

Tip: For perennial nutsedge, often referred to as nutgrass, you’ll need to use a product specifically labeled for nutsedge control. Nutsedge is not a grass but belongs to the sedge family, and you can recognize it by the small tubers found in its root ball. Standard grass herbicides won’t be effective against it.

Using Pre-Emergent Weed Killer

Pre-emergent herbicide works by fixing the germination of new seeds surrounding plants that fall onto the soil. These items do not impact the deep roots part of permanent weeds or even, they cannot stop germination of weed seed already present in the soil. For this reason, they have limited effect on stopping a perennial grass from growing in your garden.

Pre-emergents can be combined with other practices to control grasses and weeds; however, they also prevent desirable seeds from germinating. If you have ornamental nearby plants in your garden that you want to self-seed, then avoid using this kind of herbicide. Pre-emergent weed killers are usually provided as a granular form which is mixed with the garden soil.

Applying Organic Methods

If you’re hesitant about using garden chemicals, you might want to try one of these organic methods:

• Vinegar: Spraying diluted vinegar onto remove grass can kill it, though it may require multiple applications to be effective.
• Boiling Water: Pouring boiling water over the grass can destroy it, including the roots.
• Flame: Propane torch tools are available that allow you to kill weeds by applying intense heat. This method often, but not always, kills the roots as well.
• Solarization: For larger garden areas overrun by grass, you can kill it by covering the area with clear plastic and letting the sun heat the soil beneath. This method kills the seeds and roots of all plants in the covered area and is useful when converting a lawn area into a garden bed.
• Corn Gluten: This organic option is typically used on lawns to control crabgrass and other weeds. While it might help prevent crabgrass in garden beds, it doesn’t affect turf grasses that have spread into these areas.

Types of Herbicides for Grass Removal

Herbicides for removing grass can be broadly categorized into two types: chemical herbicides and organic herbicides. Each category has its own benefits and limitations, and the choice depends on your specific needs and environmental considerations.

Herbicides	Type:	Dilution Rate	Application Time:	Number of Treatments:	Effective Against:
Glyphosate	Non-selective	Typically 2.5 ounces per gallon of water.	Best applied in late spring or early fall.	Usually one, but a second treatment may be necessary for stubborn grass.	Most types of grass, including perennial and annual grasses.
2,4-D	Selective (broadleaf weed killer)	1.5 ounces per gallon of water.	Apply in spring or early summer when grass is actively growing.	Typically one to two treatments are sufficient.	Broadleaf weeds while leaving grass mostly unharmed, useful for controlling grass weeds in lawns.
Dicamba	Selective (broadleaf weed killer)	1 ounce per gallon of water.	Spring or summer, during active growth.	One to two treatments.	Broadleaf weeds in grass lawns.
Vinegar (Acetic Acid)	Non-selective	Use undiluted or mix with water at a 1:1 ratio for less potency.	Apply on a sunny day in the growing season, typically in late spring or summer.	Multiple treatments (3-4) may be necessary.	Young grasses and weeds, less effective on established grass.
Corn Gluten Meal	Pre-emergent	Apply directly without dilution.	Early spring before grass seeds germinate.	Once per season.	Prevents grass seeds from germinating; not effective on established grass.
Clove Oil	Non-selective	1 ounce per gallon of water.	Apply during warm, sunny weather.	Multiple treatments may be necessary.	Young grasses and weeds.

1. Chemical Herbicides

Chemical herbicides are the most common and effective means of grass removal. They can be classified into two main types: non-selective and selective herbicides.

• Non-selective Herbicides: These herbicides kill all plants they come into contact with, making them ideal for clearing areas entirely.
• Selective Herbicides: These target specific types of plants, allowing you to kill grass while leaving other plants unharmed.

2. Organic Herbicides

Organic herbicides are made from natural ingredients and are generally safer for the environment, but they may require more frequent applications and may not be as potent as chemical herbicides.

Removing Turf Using a Shovel or Fork

This means instant results and direct planting. However, by using a spade or fork to remove the sod you may end up being sweaty or even having sore muscles. If it is in a good condition, this sod can be used for other purposes around your home vegetable garden.

• Water the area several days before starting work so that the soil becomes easy to handle. The soil ought to be moist but not soggy. Saturated soil not only becomes heavy but also gets compressed easily which leads to poor growth of plants.
• With an edger or sharp spade, cut the sod into parallel strips one foot wide. The strips can then be sliced into 1-2 feet lengths based on turf density and chunk thickness respectively. Then lift up one edge of a piece of sod and slide under it a spade or fork. Cut through any deep taproots, and lift out the precut piece, making sure to include grass’s fibrous roots on it. When this sod is lifted there is much loose soil at its bottom; such kind of soil can just be shaken back onto the surface when lifting by use of a fork.
• If you skip crosscutting, roll up the strips and keep peeling back the strip. Remember though that these rolls will be heavy in weight after some time they are rolled up like this. For instance if you are laying down a large bed consider renting a sod cutter from a store near you.These steel blade like plows are more efficient than spades for large amounts of work and come as either human-powered or gas-powered.
• Review your new bed’s subsoil (and underside of reused sod). Upon removal of sods look for any possible pests particularly those that develop in May/June beetles as their larva will need destruction too.The next thing is removing rocks along with other debris including clumps left behind by grasses as well as big roots.
• Sod removal has one disadvantage in that it results in major loss of organic material, which is very beneficial to the well-being of plants. This should then be replaced by compost, aged manure or similar substances. In most cases, topsoil is also required. Some may have shaken out of the sod you removed, but you will probably need more since flower beds often require raised levels.

How To Smother & Kill Grass Or Weeds

If completely removing grass seems like too much effort, you can opt to cover it instead, effectively smothering and killing it in place. Generally, smothering grass is a slower process compared to digging it out. However, you can speed things up by covering the grass and immediately adding raised flower beds or other ground cover on top, before the grass has fully died.

This is a viable option, though be aware that the ground surface may settle and sink slightly as the grass decomposes beneath it. On the other hand, if you intend to plant directly in the ground where the grass once was, be prepared for the process to take several months.

Deep Mulch & Sheet Mulching

One of the most sustainable ways to kill grass is to cover it with a thick material that occurs naturally. For example, you can cover grass with various types of mulch such as paper, leaves, wood chips, compost, leaf mold, bark, and pine needles. For mulch to do away with grass effectively it has to be in inches deep so as to block sunlight and have enough weight for smothering. Leaves are light and fluffy; they compact and decay after some time therefore use many on top like quite a few feet.

Deep mulching can be achieved by first laying down a thick layer of paper over the grass and then topping it off with mulch. Such materials include at least 8-10 sheets of newspaper, unwaxed cardboard or several layers of bulk unbleached masking paper. You know what I mean like the one you buy from a big roll?

Afterward thoroughly wet the paper material that has covered your lawn. Then put some mulch on top of your preferred choice and also wet that stuff too. Wet the deep layer every once in awhile even if there is no paper (unless rain makes it constantly wet). Moisture conditions speed up decomposition of organic matter besides keeping fluffy materials used for instance leaves from being blown away by wind.

In order for this process to work best begin during fall allowing winter pass while the mulch sits above it all along. Thus over next months healthy plants below will die and rot away. After which you may remove all the soil coverings in order to plant into dirt without any vegetation on top.

Or else if there is concern about invasive weeds coming back through them before incorporating raised flower beds or other landscaping into this space just add other ground covers instead now cleared out for good ones again then Clearly this grass removal approach needs an abundant supply of mulching substance as well as some patience .

Solarizing Grass

Solarizing is another method to kill grass, though it doesn’t necessarily involve physically removing it. If you’re unfamiliar with the process, solarizing involves covering grass with clear plastic to both heat kills grass and smother it.

When done properly, solarizing efficiently “cooks” the top layer of soil, effectively killing the grass, weeds, insects, nematodes, and pathogens below, leaving the soil free of these elements. It also destroys grass and weed seeds, potentially preventing future growth.

How to Solarize Your Lawn

To effectively solarize your lawn, the best time to do it is during the summer when temperatures are highest and the area receives ample direct sunlight. The aim is to get direct sun to heat the grass and soil to about 140°F to ensure thorough eradication of the grass.

• Prepare the Area: Begin by mowing the grass as short as possible, then water the area thoroughly. The moisture will enhance the heat’s effectiveness during solarization.
• Cover with Clear Plastic: Cover the area with clear plastic sheets or tarps. It’s essential to use clear plastic because it maximizes heat penetration, mimicking a greenhouse effect. Dark tarps might harm the grass aesthetically but won’t achieve the necessary high temperatures to effectively kill it.
• Secure the Plastic: Make sure all edges and seams of the plastic are securely tucked in or weighed down. This helps to minimize air pockets that can reduce the heating effect and prevent any new growth from sneaking through.
• Leave in Place: Keep the plastic in place for four to six weeks. This duration allows the heat to penetrate deeply and kill the grass completely, ensuring a successful solarization.

After Solarizing

Once the grass is dead, you have several options for managing the area. One possibility is to remove the dead grass, though this means you’ll be undertaking the physical task of removing it. Alternatively, you can lay down mulch, compost, raised beds, or another type of ground cover directly over the dead turf. Ideally, the dead grass underneath will break down over time, effectively composting in place and enriching the soil.

However, this process isn’t always guaranteed to work perfectly. Factors like climate and the specific method used can affect the decomposition rate. Solarization, a technique that uses the sun’s heat to kill grass and weeds under clear plastic, may not be entirely effective, especially against persistent weeds like crabgrass. In such cases, you might need to remove these resilient weeds even after attempting solarization.

Best Practices for Herbicide Use

1. Follow the Instructions: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for dilution and application to ensure effective grass removal and to avoid damage to desired plants or the environment.
2. Optimal Timing: Apply herbicides when the grass is actively growing, typically in the spring or fall. Avoid application during extreme weather conditions like drought or heavy rain, as this can reduce effectiveness.
3. Safety Precautions: Wear protective clothing, gloves, and eyewear when applying chemical herbicides. Organic herbicides, while safer, should still be handled with care.
4. Multiple Treatments: For some organic herbicides and stubborn grasses, multiple treatments may be necessary. Be patient and persistent for the best results.
5. Environmental Considerations: Consider the environmental impact of herbicides. Organic options are generally more eco-friendly, but may require more effort.

FAQ

Final

After treating an infestation of grass, you can prevent it from returning by applying a three-inch thick layer of mulch to your flower beds, which helps prevent new grass seeds from weeds germinating. While landscape fabric is another option for preventing grass, it can create more work in the future if it tears or allows weeds to sprout through.

A more effective approach is to use organic materials like wood chips, shredded leaves, or compost. These not only discourage grass seed germination but also suppress weed growth and make any necessary weeding easier. Additionally, these organic mulches contribute nutrients to the soil as they decompose, enhancing soil health and supporting plant growth.